Hand CurtainHugad Curtain49 BetydligBetydlig WallNumber 502Celling BracketWall CellingIkea ArticleCurtain Rod HoldersForwardBETYDLIG Curtain rod holder IKEA You can mount it in BETYDLIG wall/celling bracket to create a bracket for double rod. Shop for your favourite products online and have them delivered for only $20 to a location near you.(This page will close)UPDATE: Welcome to jhb!  Thanks so much for stopping by!  This method worked really well for hanging curtains in my rental without damaging the walls.  If you want to see how the removal went, click HERE!  If you’re installing your curtains, read on for instructions friend! First, chew a piece of gum.  While chewing, use duct tape to fashion floor length curtains.  Find a piece of plumbing pipe longer than the width of your window.  Affix your duct tape curtain to the plumbing pipe using more duct tape.  Spit out your gum, tear it in half, put some on each end of the plumbing pipe and attach it to the wall.  

That’s how MacGyver would hang curtains in my situation.  See, the condo that the fella and I live in was built in 1983.  And like most condos built in the early 80s, we have… a mirrored wall.  Here it is in all its glaring, shiny, mirrored glory.  Note that this photo was taken previous to me purchasing my sectional and also previous to the last two living room rearrangements. One of the two small windows in our living room is surrounded by this massive mirror.  Into which I cannot drill holes for window treatments.  Our landlord is a saint, but I’m pretty sure taking a sledgehammer to the mirrored wall would be on his no-no list.  Plus, who needs all that bad luck, anyway?  So my task was to figure out how to hang curtains on a wall I couldn’t drill into.  And though MacGyver’s version sounds lovely, I’m not sure it would match our decor.  So here’s how I did it… *Disclaimer: as with the rest of my posts, this post is NOT sponsored.  I just want to write about products that I love, use and have success with!

My curtain rods, mounting hardware and finials all came from IKEA.  For each window – one rod, a pair of mounting brackets and the finials came to the grand total of $7.47 pre-tax.  ikea vivan curtains ukSo for both windows, I spent $16.17.  japanese panel curtains ronaAnd how cute are these finials?!next silver pin rib eyelet curtains Here’s where it got real complicated for me.  curtains and blinds burscoughI went out and got the 3M Command hanging strips that hold up to 16 lbs.  made to measure weighted voile curtains

The ones that work like velcro.   I’ve used them before on heavy frames and they work wonders.  I attached the strips to the brackets and the wall according to the instructions, then I waited two days before touching them to let the adhesive set.  bch curtains singaporeI put my curtains on my rods and then carefully rested the rods in the brackets.  the tortilla curtain vocabularyAnd 15 minutes later, the strips separated and the whole thing came crashing to the floor.  My curtains are a really breezy, thin linen, so I really don’t think they weigh 16 lbs (even combined with the rod and finials), but I guess gravity got the better of the Command strips because down they came. I knew there had to be another way… Enter Alene’s turbo tacky glue… I thought it might have enough strength to keep the strips from separating, but also be pliable enough to make removal easier.  

I figure if its a little stubborn when I take them down, I can take a box cutter to the tacky glue.  The strips are destroyed when you remove them anyway. So all it took was a little bead of tacky glue down the length of the strip and a firm press into the wall. I waited a couple of days before putting the curtain rod on the brackets, just to be sure that the tacky glue had set and was completely dry.  I very gingerly put the curtain rods into the brackets and much to my excitement, they stayed up! Imagine me doing a happy dance in my living room while the dog tries his best not to feel embarrassed of me. So far its been a month and I haven’t had any issues with the system not staying put.  I’ll definitely post an update if that changes.  But I’m glad that its a success thus far!  Now I’m thinking I may want to dye my curtains or otherwise give them some sort of upgrade.  Right now they’re just plain linen but I’d love to give ’em some character.  

So that’s how I hung curtains on a wall that cannot be drilled into.  Anyone else have a creative way to hang curtains without drilling holes?  I’d love to hear other folks’ ideas or workarounds for a situation like this!   Sharing is caring:Like this: There are FOUR things you must know before installing the IKEA Kvartal on any window, including a bay window — miss any one of these and you'll be running out to a hardware store or back to IKEA for spare parts. The problem with IKEA curtain systems is that you're buying components in pieces, so you don't get complete instructions. When you buy the rails, you get instructions on how to measure, cut and connect the rails. If you buy the wall brackets you get instructions on how to install the wall brackets, which differ from the ceiling brackets. If you buy the curtain panels, you get instructions on how to install the curtain hooks into the fabric. If you buy the hooks, you get instructions on how to hang the curtains.

However, all the components are interdependent. The rails attach to the brackets in a way that is only shown on the bracket instructions. The curtains hang from the rails in a way that is only shown on the curtain hooks instructions. This is a "choose your own adventure" assembly, and there is danger up ahead. Only those who've purchased and installed all the components and variations will know what to look out for. That would be me. I've suffered, so you won't have to. 1. You must use flat-head screws when installing the brackets. The brackets don't come with hardware. Purchase enough 1" anchors and screws so that you have two for each bracket — and make sure the screws are flat-head screws. This warning is buried in the instructions for the brackets. I'll go into this in more depth when we get to bracket installation. 2. Your brackets must be placed at your rail connection lines. The brackets need to connect to one of the screws in the connector bar that looks like this.

This information isn't included in the instructions for configuring the rails. It's only included in the instructions that come with the wall brackets. So, I didn't realize this until my dry run when I'd already made my rail cuts. It could have been disastrous — sending me back to IKEA in a snowstorm — except that I happened to have extra connector bars from previous installations on hand. 3. Cut your center rails to meet in the exact center. Because the brackets need to be placed at a connection point, I should have cut both rails on the back wall equally to have them connect in the very center. Instead I left one in tact at 55" and I cut the other one down to size. I thought I was saving myself some work — one less rail to cut — but, no dice. This put the connector bar to the far right off center. The brackets are pretty prominent and the one on the back wall would look terrible off-center. Luckily, I had extra connector bar on hand from a previous project or I would have been running back to IKEA for new rails — the connector bars come with a rail purchase and are not sold separately.

Most people will not have extras on hand. 4. Leave off one of the end caps until this project is completely finished. If you don't, you will not be able to slide in the little plastic hanger on wheels that your curtains will eventually hang from. Yeah, they don't tell you this anywhere in the instructions. And the end caps are very difficult to remove when the rails are up on the wall, especially if your window is a bay window and the rails abut the side walls. Lots of scratches on the plaster. Phase I: Cutting and Connecting Your Rails So, my original bracket placement plan looked like this and it was wrong. Why was it wrong? The red dots indicating bracket placement were not aligned with rail connection points. Here is my revised schematic, after taking a dry run and troubleshooting issues: The first thing to note is which side of the rail is "up" — it's the side that has an extra track. If you glance at the end, it looks like this. You will want to remove IKEA labels now and clean up the adhesive.

They don't come off easily but will be way more difficult to remove and clean up after the rails are assembled and on the walls. Remove the end caps as well, using a pliers cushioned with a shop towel to protect the easily dented plastic end caps. Step 1: Cut your corner piece approximately in half. The entire corner piece is said to be 8-1/4".  Cut in half, each side is 4-1/8". About 2 inches of that will lay on your center wall rail with the other 2-1/8" taking up space on your wing rails. I just eyeballed the corner piece and cut it in half and that worked. Step 2: Cut your wing pieces. Mine are 36" and 35", respectively. I cut them using the hacksaw/miter box that IKEA sells specifically for this job. I purchased it about 10 years ago and have used it multiple times. It makes clean cuts, especially on Kvartal rails or anything aluminum. It's important that the rails connect up smoothly. It will make the drapes slide nicely when all is assembled. You'll find the miter box kit in the curtain area for $5.99.

Step 3: Cut your main rail or rails, if you're going to be using more than one. I have a span of 92" inches on the back wall of my bay window, so I'll be using two rails to span it. They come in lengths of 55", so according to the revised schematic I should have cut each to 44" in order to have them connect in the exact center where the wall bracket must go in order to line up with and screw into a connector bar. Step 4: Connect the corner pieces to the wings. Step 5: Connect the corner pieces to the center rail. Step 6: Connect your center rails if you have, as I do, more than one. Step 7: Make sure there is a connector piece on the outer end of each wing rail. Loosen all of its screws so that it can slide around. Now place an end cap on just one of your wing rails. Leave the other one open. These actions are going to save you pain later. Lay your connected rails on the floor. If you've made your cuts correctly, they should line up proportionally with the walls in your "bay".

Phase II: Install Your Wall Brackets For a bay window, if your center wall is longer than 55" you'll be connecting rails and will need at least five brackets: One in the center and two supporting each of the wings, right and left. Here's a reminder of the revised schematic.Unscrew the small screw and separate each bracket from its plate. Do this to all five first-thing; one of mine came stripped and I had to run back to IKEA for a replacement. Step 2: Drill holes and embed your anchors. We have plaster over masonry walls, so I used a 1" Crown Bolt red plug and a masonry drill bit. Here's how mine looked. Step 3: Screw in the plate with your flat-head screws.  I used some 1" flat-head wood screws that I have on hand and it worked fine with my 1" red plastic plug. Step 4: Slide the bracket over the plate and tighten the small screw that holds the bracket to the plate. Check that it's level. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 until all brackets are on the wall.

This lined up the connector screw just where I wanted it. Then I bumped the bracket back in place and tightened the screw holding the bracket to the plate. Phase III: Hanging Your Curtains IKEA curtain panels can hang multiple ways: using metal pleat hooks, plastic hooks or metal clips. Here's where I was testing the look of pleat hooks versus metal clips. I went with pleats. Whatever choice you make, both pleat hooks and plastic hooks loop into the header tape on the back of IKEA curtain panels. If you're sewing your own panels you'll want to purchase IKEA curtain header tape. Or any curtain panel can use the metal clips, which work without any tape at all. It's a very informal style that looks great with most curtains. Header tape comes in lengths of 122", so one pack should be enough to sew onto two curtain panels. So, in the end I went with the darker gray Aina curtains. They're 100% linen, and I'm very happy with the results. I purchased the 98" panels, which just skim the floor, and I didn't have to hem them.