I love roller blinds for their functionality (privacy and light blockage are there when you want it, gone when you don’t), but they’re not always the most exciting thing to look at. (Plain sheet of white vinyl? But here’s a simple way to snazz up the situation — sew your own, using a hacked purchased blind as a base. I think fabric blinds have a minimalism that’s really chic, and they allow you to use bold prints that could be too much in a full-on curtain. Best of all, you can start and finish this project in just a couple hours, so a window makeover is just an afternoon away. CLICK HERE for the full roller blind how-to after the jump! heavy-duty roller blinds (including necessary hardware to hang them) medium-weight fabric (determine how much you’ll need in Step 2) all-purpose thread to match your fabric L-square or yard stick OR cutting mat, rotary cutter and straight edge Sturdy, medium-heavy fabrics (such as light canvas, cotton twill or decor-weight cottons) work best for this project.

A somewhat stiff fabric is preferable over something softer, as the stiff fabric will roll up more successfully than flimsier choices. If you have your heart set on a lightweight fabric, I’d suggest lining it with fusible interfacing to give it more body and stiffness. Although I haven’t tried it, stiff sheer fabrics (like the sheer panels sold at Ikea) would probably work well here too. 2. Hack, Install, and Measure One important thing to note is that you should choose a heavy-weight roller blind (sometimes labeled “maximum light blocking,” or similar). The spring mechanism in lighter blinds isn’t always strong enough to support the weight of a fabric shade, so I suggest playing it safe and going heavy-duty. Install the original (pre-hacked) blind in your window following the manufacturer’s instructions. Note the direction the blind rolls (ie, with the blind rolling from the back or the front of the roller), as well as which end of the roller goes to the left and right.

You’ll need to plan your blind so that it rolls in exactly the same way. Remove the vinyl shade from the purchased roller blind and reserve it for another use. (I gave mine to a friend who is going to use it as a drop cloth when painting.) Also remove the dowel or plastic bar from the bottom of the blind, and set it aside (you’ll use it later).hookless mildew resistant shower curtain Measure the roller bar from end to end, just inside the caps on each end. kevlar hurricane curtainsAdd 1″ to this length for measurement A.joella curtains Also measure the distance from the roller bar to the spot where you would like the blind to fall, and add 9″ to this length for measurement B.waverly home classics buckingham valance

Cut a piece of fabric that’s as wide as A and long as B. It’s important to cut the fabric straight and even, so that the blind will hang straight. This is probably the trickiest part of this project, so take a little extra care to be sure you’ve got it really straight. To get a good, straight cut, use the selvedge edge of your fabric as a guide — you can count on the selvedge edge to be straight, so if you work from that line, you’ll be on the right track.curtains 72x90 If you have access to one, I highly recommend a rotary cutter, cutting mat, and straight edge for this job, as these tools make it really easy to cut perfectly straight lines and right angles. curtains and blinds heanorIf you don’t have these, you can use an L-square or a yard stick to mark straight lines.dunelm pencil pleat blackout curtains

Make the first cut along the selvedge edge, then measure from that line to make the remaining cuts, being careful to cut right angles so that all edges will be straight. Turn under the long side edges 1/2″ and press. (Note: only turn the fabric under once, not twice as you would normally do. It’s best to avoid extra bulk in the seams so that the blind will roll up neatly, and a double-fold would case more bulk. This does mean that the raw edge of the fabric will be visible on the back side of the curtain, but what the heck, live dangerously!) Sew along the side seams, stitching close to the folded-under raw edge. Next, turn under the bottom edge 1/2″ and press, then turn it under another 1 1/2″ and press again. Stitch in place, sewing close to the interior fold. (Note: the sides of the hem will stay open, which creates a sleeve for inserting the dowel at the bottom of the blind.) To attach the fabric blind to the roller mechanism, place the fabric right-side up on a work surface.

(The cutting mat works great here, as you can use the grid lines to be sure you’re aligning everything evenly.) It’s important to be sure the roller is aligned perfectly straight at the top edge of the fabric, so that the fabric will roll evenly. (Also take a moment here to be sure your fabric will be rolling in the correct direction, as you noted in Step 2.) On the blinds I purchased, there was adhesive left on the roller from where the vinyl had been attached, and it was strong enough to hold my fabric panel. If that’s not the case for you, apply a strip of double-sided tape to attach the fabric to the roller. Then simply roll the fabric onto the roller. Pop your blind back into the hardware you installed earlier. Insert the dowel (which you removed earlier from the hacked blind) into the pocket and you’re done!On the days you just can't hand wash or spot clean another thing, remember that you have a major time-saving machine in your house. Lots of things, like these eight items, can be tossed in the washer.

Just be sure to check any care tags or manufacturer guidelines first. If your son's favorite teddy bear looks like he's been mud wrestling, give him a bath in the washing machine on a gentle cycle. Secure any loose strings, remove any "clothing," and place the toy in a mesh bag or pillowcase for added protection. Don't forget to check the care tag (it he has one). Certain furs might not be washable, and the same goes for a toy stuffed with small foam balls, like Beanie Babies. Wash canvas or nylon tennies (like Keds — avoid putting leather or athletic shoes in the washing machine) in cold water to prevent any warping, and throw in an old towel to prevent them from knocking around too much in the machine. Remove the insoles and laces if you can, and wash those separately. Good news: If your pillows are down or fiberfill, you can clean them in the washing machine. Use a gentle cycle with warm water, but always read the care label first.4. Backpacks or lunch bags Although you might not think to check, some backpacks can be washed in a front-loading washing machine (and throw in your soccer star's stinky shin guards, too).

Turn the bag inside out and remove metal parts, if you can, and know that any bejeweled elements or decals might not withstand the spinning. Place the bag in a pillowcase to protect it, and wash on a gentle cycle.RELATED: 8 Ingenious Laundry Room Ideas »These no-skid mats get a lot of foot traffic, and can quickly become dirty instead of decorative. If your rug is made of cotton or synthetic fibers, you can throw it in the washing machine along with bath towels. Wash in cold water on the gentle cycle, and don't clean them too often: The rubber backing can't withstand weekly trips to the laundry room.Save yourself the chore of hand washing as you refresh your windows. Unless your curtains are made of a delicate material, they can likely be washed on a slow-spin cycle in cool water.Bring your patio furniture out of hibernation. Wash one chair pad at a time, use the gentle cycle, and make sure your machine has enough space — if you're forcing the pads to fit inside (they may not fit if your machine has an agitator), to wash them by hand instead.